The Inertia

Being grateful can boost our mood exponentially, and when things are going good, we have a natural tendency to pay it forward. If we can be conscious of what we’ve been blessed with on a regular basis, there is often a quicker turnaround during the down times.  

As surfers, we’ve all had those days when we find ourselves in the right spot for any wave we want. Our flow is working and it’s almost like the waves are seeking us out. Conversely, we’ve all had those days when no matter how much we paddle, we’re never in the right spot. Our frustration builds and so does our seemingly bad decision making. Instead of feeling stoked when we see another surfer catch a good wave, we start to feel agitated. I’ve found the best way to thwart this negativity is to accept my frustration and then try to let it go. I choose to be thankful for the ocean, the surf, and the joy it brings me — even if in the moment I feel completely opposite. If I can tap into this line of thinking, things usually start looking up.

I think Kelly Slater might be the master “trickster.” During heats, he doesn’t allow frustration to cloud his spirit.  The surf may have been flat for 20 minutes, there’s seconds left on the clock, and he needs a 9.5 to win, but he always appears unfazed.  He seems thankful just to be in the water.  And more often than not, that winning wave magically comes his way.



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