The boys gave me the heads up about a big swell forecast and I couldn’t miss it. I packed my stuff and away I went, chasing waves with the boys. We were greeted with empty barrels, perfect peelers and the freedom of the ocean. We searched for our own secrets spots via maps and our legs to avoid the (small) crowds, and found three empty line ups in one day. It was an epic time to remember, where the only competition out there was the strength of our arms and legs. They surfed for hours and I snapped these frames, making it a weekend of waves never to be forgotten.
