The Inertia

I sent Kyle Thiermann a text the day before.

Me: “You think mavs is going to be just good or amazing tomorrow”?

Kyle T: “Amazing”


I’ve been out on a boat a bunch of times now, and it always amazes me that it’s not more of “a thing.” I explain it to non-surfer friends by likening it to seeing the Grand Canyon or the Taj Mahal…but half an hour from San Francisco.

Watching Maverick’s from the shoulder is a completely different experience from the cliff. From the cliff, it mostly just looks like a massive crumbly wave. From the shoulder, you realize it’s an XXL slab.

I was stoked to see a few of the city boys out there – Lopez and Marty – to name a couple. It’s been amazing watching those guys, who I’ve been shooting at Ocean Beach for over 10 years now, charging proper big wave spots.

The Porcella butt-slide was rad to witness first hand. The whole arena was hooting. It’s cool watching in in super slow-mo as you can see all the micro moments as they unfold. It’s amazing how calm he was, so quickly.

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