Man, I miss San Diego. It’s a place I called home for four years. That brief stint opened me up to surfing a variety of different waves – a complete 180 from the long stretch of beach breaks in north Orange County I cut my teeth on as a grom. Those years also broadened my perspective on wave craft. San Diegans (San Dieguinos?) tend to have a certain openness to experimentation. Lucas Dirkse personifies that. From traditional logs to alternative shortboard shapes, Dirkse does it all in this short little clip. It has me homesick for a place I’d hardly call home.
