When Jack O’Neill died in June at the age of 94, the surf world mourned. He was much more than the man who almost single-handedly made it possible for surfers to ride waves in cold water, though. He was a constant purveyor of stoke–a man who lived to have fun and to see others have fun.
His memorial paddle out is set for July 9th at 11 am at Pleasure Point in Santa Cruz. The video you see above is an homage to the man, directed and produced by Peter Hamblin. His life was full of amazing things, a rich tapestry of experience tinged with a childlike wonder for everything around him. His empire, if one could call it that–Jack himself never would–was born from one thing: he just wanted to surf longer.
