We’ve all been there. Stroke after exhausting stroke. Whitewater on the head, over and over again, looking for a rip or a break in the surf to get out the back that just isn’t there. Paddling in unruly storm surf to try and catch those dreamy looking waves lining up on the outside – a few seconds too late or a few inches too shallow on a duck dive can be the difference between sitting on your board and waiting for a good one or struggling mightily on the inside, deciding whether or not to go in.
This recent post from Koa Rothman and his “This Is Livin” vlog is a good look at that scenario we’ve all tangled with, albeit maybe not in 10-foot storm surf. It’s also a rather endearing glimpse of a group of friends who grew up together. Rothman, Eli Olson, John John, Ivan Florence, and a few others all try to make it out the back just up the beach from Pipeline. Only Koa and John succeed in what Koa calls “The Worst Paddle Out Ever,” even though it sure must have felt good to be the one who did bust through. And John John, as John John usually does, catches a couple of waves that actually look good.
Enjoy this view of the struggle. I’m sure you can relate.
