I have been here in Mexico for almost eight months now, and Puerto Escondido much of the past month. It has been an epic time spent in this town, and it almost feels like home. This is my last week here and I’ve been lucky enough to witness another big summer swell. Surfers showed up with the big guns, most of them also wearing floating vests, no leashes and I’ve never seen so many broken boards as these past three days.
It’s been mind blowing to see the big wave chargers like Coco Nogales, Jose Ramirez Rito and Tommy Lowe charge these monsters without fear, totally committed. It’s definitely an art, but mostly you need nerves of steel and a very calm-assertive mind set on a wave with no room for error. Needless to say, Puerto is no joke.