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The Inertia

Holy crap, a surfing short that has a story line! Color us impressed. Remember that line in Point Break? The one that goes, “Surfing’s the source. Change your life, swear to God.” It’s true! That kid was right!

Seriously though, however much we b*tch and moan about less-than-stellar conditions, crowded lineups, or whatever other trivial bullsh*t there is to get all high-and-mighty about, it’s stories like this — losing a mother, no less — that remind us how great most of us have it in spite of the SUP-er dropping in on you. Surfing is truly a luxury that we’re lucky to have and every paddle out is a moment of stoke we should appreciate through and through.

Cool of Jordy Smith to give this kid with a parallel story a platform to share his own story of how he was inspired to overcome terrible adversity, and us an opportunity to remember what surfing means to ourselves. And cool of him to be paying it forward by supporter Surfers Not Street Children. And cool of him to do it while putting together an edit of him absolutely tearing up his home coast’s breaks.

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See the full interview at oneill.com/todayisperfect and learn how to donate to the cause at justgiving.com/surfersnotstreetchildren.

jordy-smith

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