Surfers are notoriously unscientific. Just ask someone how big the surf is. We’re worse than fishermen when it comes to determining size. That’s why it’s refreshing to know that there’s a pair of scientists looking into a bunch of aspects of our sport that apply to everyday surfers.
That would be Jeff Nessler and Sean Newcomer, two professors-slash-surfers at Cal State University San Marcos. They’ve put their curiosity about surfing, not to mention an army of students and some high-priced equipment, to work over the past year or so.