The Inertia

Today was pretty darn amazing. To any mortal human, these waves are huge, dangerous, and freezing cold. But Kalani Lattanzi is no average Joe. This is still considered fun and playful Nazaré for Kalani. Just watching him paddle out directly into oncoming sets is a sight to see. I asked Kalani before he paddled out where he was planning on entering the surf (some people use rip currents, or low sections to make paddling out easier), he simply said, “I was just going to go straight down the middle”.

Oh… Of course, what was I thinking?

As the double and occasional triple overhead sets rolled through, I just tried to keep up with my camera and drone. I spent most of the day laughing to myself when Kalani told me after he exited the water, “I have a lot of friends out in the water, friends that will give me a hand when I need it, I know these guys, but I think they like me best because I don’t wear any floatation when I’m in the water.” Nearly every other person that surfs Nazaré wears a life jacket, inflatable vest, or even a helmet. And that’s when I realized the absurdity of Kalani wearing just his wetsuit, fins, and a handplane.

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