Story by Gustavo Lermen Silva
I was completely absorbed by Nazaré after surfing it for the first time just a few weeks ago. I had already witnessed giant waves here, like the 2014 Hercules swell. I’d even had my own scare on that same day, as I descended the lighthouse stairs to the mirador and got washed up by a giant wave. But I’d never surfed it before.
The locals I talked to said we were safe there, but they are wrong. Nazaré always surprises people and shows its power to all who approach. A wave formed and exploded on the stones in front of the lighthouse, leaving everyone there completely vulnerable, at the mercy of that white curtain. Luckily the water came from top to bottom, hit the hill and fell like a soft waterfall, otherwise, this could have been a tragic event.