If you can’t surf, be versatile. It’ll make you a better surfer. Photos: Unsplash
Hawaiian watermen — Eddie, The Duke, to name a few — did more. They swam, lifeguarded, paddled, and fished – making a life and a living on the water.
Mid-20th century Californians added a wrinkle. When the surf was down, the youth skated. This progression gave way to the Dogtown generation, who veritably surfed the streets.
When I played hockey in the North American junior League and the NCAA, we cross-trained. It was encouraged. Golf, road biking, and soccer were the populars. They were a fun way to reinforce similar pathways (agility, control, hand-eye) and muscle groups while developing lesser used ones. My days at the rink are over, but I still surf. And the activities I’ve picked up along the way have helped me improve my surfing.
Be an outdoors enthusiast. Or be a gym bro. Your choice. Either way, other surfers will be happy that you’re not on their peak, even when it’s certifiable mush. These are the four pursuits I choose these days when I can’t surf, that I’m absolutely positive make me a better surfer.
Mountain Biking
I’ve mountain biked a few epic spots in North America. Moab, Zion, and Arches National Park all explored with a Scott hardtail bike. Then Pikes Peak, Colorado and Whistler, British Columbia on the heavy downhill bike.
Trail riding develops your cardio and is an absolute leg burner of a workout. I don’t know many surfers with built legs, because we spend about 10 percent of our time using them in the act. Give your burly shoulders something to stand on. Think of a long uphill ascent as a white wall paddle out. Grit teeth, control breathing, and time outputs. There’s a place to go slow, and there’s a time to push it. Plus there is no better way to keep the extra weight off you gain from those post-surf beers than climbing on a mountain bike. The lighter you are, the more the pop-up remains the same.
And downhill riding begets flow, and requires body control — like when leaning around s-turns. Bombing it straight downhill gives a rush no different than a sizable wave, and puckers your “you know what.”
Yoga
Begrudgingly, I took up yoga when the rubberiness of my youthful body began to fade. Yoga helps undo all of the damage in the body — tight muscles, tweaks, long nights out, and all of the postural habits that desk jobs, phones, and travel bring.
After starting yoga, I relearned flexibility, developed balance in muscles I did not know existed, and became a hell of a lot more in tune with my breath and body.
And if you’re in a cold water region, a hot yoga session after a cold surf is chicken noodle soup on crack.
Hunting down there is good for you. Photo: Michael Worden
Spearfishing
The waters of Florida taught me the art of the spear. The warm, crystal-clear ocean was not always surf friendly, but food in the form of plenty swam down below where those waves would break. I hacked away at the practice. With a pole spear and mask, the learning curve began to emerge each time I submerged.
Under the water, it’s a patience game. There’s an economy of movement. Save your breath, rushing leads to shorter dives. Creep slowly, sudden movements startle the fish. Aim straight and don’t twitch when you release. I got these techniques down, and started hitting fish. Fish I could eat. Sheepshead, Jack, Hogfish.
Spearfishing helps improve your breath hold, teaches you how to stay calm in the water, and gives you a new perspective on the ocean. It’s impossible to not take a freedive to the bottom after paddling out now.
Skateboarding
Board time is board time. To paraphrase Christian Fletcher — when you surf for an hour, how much time do you spend on the board… more than a few minutes, if you’re good? With a skateboard, ride as much as you want.
There’s a few facets of skating that progressed my surfing. For one, the ollie helped me learn to pop the board off the chop of the wave. Bombing hills gave me the courage to try bigger surf. And skaters, despite what the public image might tell you, are stewards of friendship. Every time I go to the park it’s a reminder to bring that same attitude back to the ocean.
The greats cross-train. Mark Healey spearfishes, Albee Layer mountain bikes, Gerry Lopez is a yogi, and John John Florence is a wizard on a skateboard.
And if more sports aren’t your cup of tea, you can always go the traditional route (what I call, taking your medicine) — run, swim, lift weights, stationary bike. Being an outdoor enthusiast sounds like a lot more fun, though.
