The Inertia

Mexico has always been on my radar for obvious reasons: the waves are reliable, it’s cheap and it’s close. So when a couple of good mates and I had 48hrs away from work I didn’t hesitate suggesting a quick trip down. Over coffee we hit up a friend with a little casita just an hour and a half past the border and by lunch we were packed and on the road. One bartender, a photographer, a videographer and myself – I guess I own a clothing brand.

Unfortunately the swell was less than epic. Short period NW with onshores all day after the morning. We did get a little dumpy right to ourselves for a couple hours the first day. The rest was jumping in, drifting a kilometer down the beach, hoping for a couple windswell gems in the rough wild seas.

This is a tough thing with surfing. The success and enjoyment of so many trips weighs heavily on scoring waves. So what happens if you don’t? We’ve all driven thousands of kilometers in our lifetimes to turn up at a shitty wave and go home disappointed. There’s no doubt it sucks. I was bummed when we didn’t get the waves I wanted in Mex, of course. But it sparked a little revelation that has applied to many aspects of my life.

So much of our happiness is dictated by expectation. When what we expect doesn’t come to pass it brings us down. But that doesn’t have to mean what has come to pass is bad. Sitting around the fire with empty beach as far as I could see in either direction, I realized that I spent valuable time in paradise bummed about the waves. Meanwhile, if I just focused more on what is actually happening (in lieu of waves) I’d see that, damn, this ain’t so bad.

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I’ve passed this thought through many parts of my life in the last few days – business, relationships and future plans. I wouldn’t say I’m lowering expectations but maybe focusing less on expecting and more on whats cracking right now.

Editor’s Note: Follow more of the author’s adventures, living and running his own sustainable clothing brand all out of a sprinter van, here.


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