Surfing the same thing wave after wave, day after day can get boring. Yes, surfing, in general, is tremendously fun and often feels like it offers an infinite supply of joy. But variety is the spice of life and monotony is boredom’s best friend.
Koa Smith also manages to touch on another familiar sentiment within the surfing masses: our obsession with getting our hands on similar surf craft to those we aspire to ride waves like.
“Everyone looks at their favorite surfers,” he says, “Oh, Fanning, what’s he riding? Oh, Slater, what’s he riding? Jackson Dorian. What’s he riding?”
And honestly, why isn’t Jackson Dorian the favorite surfer of every single one of us? The kid rips beyond comprehension and he’s half the size of most humans, which somehow makes him that much more fascinating. So it turns out that during a barrel-rich jaunt through Mexico, he gets his hands on one of little Dorian’s 4’5″ thrusters and gives the thing a test ride. And he surfs it surprisingly well.
Now go steal your favorite surfer’s board and see how well you fare.