If you’re in San Clemente this week, you can’t miss this. Sine Qua Non: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing with Greg Long, is premiering at the Surfing Heritage and Cultural Center. Greg will be there to answer a few questions about his life, his surfing, and what makes him tick.
Sine Qua Non: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing provides an intimate portrait of the mentality, risks, and lifestyle associated with pursuing monstrous waves around the planet through the eyes of the world’s most decorated big wave surfer, Greg Long. The film’s title, Sine Qua Non, is a Latin phrase, which, roughly translated, means, “Without which, [there is] nothing.” Greg Long presents the viewer with a first-hand account of the life-threatening pursuit of big waves as well a look at the horrific wipeouts involved, including one that nearly ended his life. Going deeper, Long admits his pursuit could be viewed as selfish, especially when surrounded by a very close-knit family that is concerned first and foremost about his safety.
We’ve partnered with Sustainable Surf for the evening. They are hosting the What’s In Your Board? sustainability exhibit, an exhibit that celebrates surfboard making history.
There are five stations to the exhibit: Polynesian Perfection–a look at the permaculture of ancient Hawaii and the 100% sustainable roots of board making. The second is Plastic Fantastic, which is a celebration of the modern surfboard. Future Forward, the third part, is a look at the modern sustainable surfboard and, lastly, Ocean Emergency. Which is all about the state of our oceans and what we can do to ensure they’re around for a while longer.
Tickets are $5 at the door. Show up, watch a great film, check out an amazing exhibit, and drink some good beer, provided by Primo. This will be a night to remember.
