Surfing is a funny thing. It’s different for everyone–I, for example, don’t care much about hyper-aggressive surfing, dominated by quick, hard turns and aerials. Of course, I can’t do either of those very well (aerials are definitely not in my arsenal), but instead prefer long, drawn out turns and smooth, flowing lines. That’s not to say I can’t appreciate a more aggressive style of surfing, though–and part of the reason for that appreciation is because I simply am not skilled enough to do a lot of it.
Your style of surfing often dictates the kind of surfboard you ride, nearly as much as the waves you’re riding them in. In the last few years, I’ve moved away from more traditional shortboard shapes in favor of rounder, thicker boards, and (in spite of my youthful hatred of them) longboards. I’ve found it suits my surfing better, and as a result, I have more fun. Which is nice, because I’m not getting paid to surf… I’m surfing to have fun.
Manny Caro of Mandala Surfboards makes absolutely beautiful wave riding vehicles. And, like any good shaper, he rides them with style. He builds boards that flow well; boards that favor those longer, more drawn out lines. And it is a beautiful thing to watch, partly because he’s doing it for all the right reasons. “I guess if I stop having fun,” he says of both shaping and surfing, “I’ll stop doing it.
