
Shane Dorian will be looking for waves like this one today, and with his level of fitness, he’s ready. Photo: Brad Masters
“I feel more physically fit. I feel more psychologically ready when the waves get big. And I feel safer, and I feel like I’m doing everything I can do to come home at night to my family.”
Big wave surfing is no joke. There are serious, life-threatening consequences on big days, and no one knows this to be true more than Shane Dorian. Dorian has had his fair share of XXL days at Jaws, Mavericks, and beyond, and today he’ll likely be taking on absolutely huge Waimea for the Eddie. When he inevitably paddles into a bomb this morning, just know that he has put in hours and hours of training to prepare for that wave. It’s no secret that big wave surfers need to train for the conditions, but I’d imagine you’d be pressed to find someone who trains harder than Dorian. His brutal CrossFit regime has pushed his fitness and his confidence to the next level in big surf.
