A few years ago, we made a film featuring Clark Little. It was strange–I’d seen his photos, oohed and aahed like everyone else, I never actually thought about what went into them. The merciless beatings he must’ve have taken. The innumerable poundings he had to endure. But he wouldn’t have it any other way. “I’d rather go out in heavy shorebreak with some four-lipped monster throwing over and the sand sucking up,” he said in 2014. “I’m having so much fun.”
The same can be said for those who surf in heavy shorebreak. It’s not about making it… it’s about those few fleeting seconds before you don’t.
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