A few months ago, I exchanged a few short emails with Kepa Acero. I’ve always admired the way Kepa moves through life–a little slower, a little more thoughtful, and a lot more surfing–and I thought it would be a wonderful idea if we could connect somehow to make something together. It still hasn’t materialized, but I’m still hopeful. It didn’t materialize because Kepa, as it the norm for him, was just about to embark on a surf trip of a lifetime (at least to a normal person). It was just one of many “surf trips of a lifetime” for him. He spends his life chasing waves, chasing adventure, and chasing experiences.
He was riding a bike through the Outer Hebrides with Lee-Ann Curren, Mike Lay, and Colin McLeod. They weren’t chasing perfect waves. Rather, they were chasing memories, and surfing when they could find waves. “We rode 500 km and good some nice waves,” he wrote in an email. Such an unreal place.”
