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Man surfing on a wave in East Indonesia

About as perfect as a wave can be, right? Photo: YouTube//Screenshot


The Inertia

It can be hard these days to find a so-called “secret spot.” Unless you’ve got time and a boat, it can be nearly impossible. Hopefully, you’ve got one or two that you keep in your back pocket. The waves you see here don’t come from the most secret of spots, but it’s been kept quiet enough that Surf Raw Files, the creator of the video you see here, decided not to name names.

“East Indonesia has some secret gems,” the YouTube channel wrote. “So, sorry I can’t tell you the location of this spot, but enjoy this short recap from the last swell!”

A long time ago, I was standing with a friend of mine, considering paddling across a river in Nicaragua that may or may not have been full of crocodiles. There was a wave breaking in the distance, but it was far enough away that we couldn’t tell if it was surfable or a bit of a mirage. “If you can see it,” my friend said after some moments of consideration, “you can surf it.”

Since then, that’s been a mantra of mine when looking around for new waves. Not whether someone is surfing it, but whether it looks like someone could surf it.

East Indonesia is a place with plenty of waves like that, breaking over different stretches of reef at different tides on different swell directions. So while you may want to know where the wave in this video is, it might be enough just to know that you could find one just like it if you really wanted to.

 
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