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Albee Layer surfing Jaws wave during the first swell of the season

Albee Layer has Jaws wired. Photo: YouTube//Screenshot


The Inertia

Well, it’s that time of year again. It’s the time that Jaws surfers live for: Peahi’s opening day. A massive XL swell marched in from the west, serving sets up in the 15-foot range. As we’ve come to expect by now, Marcus Rodrigues was there to capture all the action.

Rodrigues, who runs the MROD Maui YouTube channel, lives for days like this. The Hawaiian islands were battered by a large swell in recent days, prompting the Honolulu Fire Department to warn beachgoers of the dangers. But for Maui surfers who love Jaws, nothing was keeping them out of the water.

“The day started out sunny with clear skies and light wind,” Rodrigues wrote. “The local big wave surfing community was on it right at first light. After a few nice tow-in waves it was time for a paddle-in session. The tide was high in the morning, creating lots of water on the reef and the swell was coming up quickly. When the tide dropped out the waves turned on but so did the wind.”

Jaws is a tough place to surf on a solid west swell, but those who have the place dialed knew where to sit. “Albee Layer got the wave of the day, and maybe one of the best paddle-in barrels that we have witnessed in a long time,” Rodrigues continued. “Kai Lenny did multiple water sports including some impressive foiling during the peak of the swell. Francisco Porcella was going deep pushing over the ledge and Kai Paula found a few great waves. Everyone was ripping up the big surf that came with the first swell of the season… It was a great opening day for everyone.”

 
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