Has anyone done it better than this guy? And for as long? Photo: Billabong
Shane Dorian is a surfer’s surfer. He’s done it all — competed on the Championship Tour, the Big Wave World Tour, and in the Eddie — with respect and humility. He’s cut from the “speak softly, carry a big stick” cloth. That’s why when he speaks, the surf community listens. I had the privilege to chat with Shane about big waves, watermen, and timeless athletes in our sport.
What does being a waterman mean to you?
To me, being a waterman means the ocean feels like home. There is a certain level of comfort you get once you spend enough time really learning about the ocean and enjoying it in different ways. I’ve always been fascinated by the ocean and it has always felt like home since I was about three years old – since I could swim.
Hawaii has a noble lineage of watermen. Who are your idols and what’s special about them?
At the top of that list would be Eddie Aikau. As a lifeguard on Oahu, he saved so many people‘s lives, and also taught life-saving to many other lifeguards and people. He also pushed the limits of big wave surfing at a time where it made a significant impact on many generations after he was gone. Other people like Terry Ahue and Mark Cunningham — I have looked up to them all my life. Just the vast amount of lives that they have saved and the significant impact they have had in the surf and ocean community is legendary.
Do watermen even need to surf?
I don’t even think you have to ride waves in order to be a waterman. People like spearfishermen or sailing enthusiasts are also watermen in my eyes. I think it just comes from having a crazy passion and fascination for the ocean.
Let’s talk big waves. What’s the fear factor and how do you overcome big water?
It’s definitely scary, but the challenge is hard to describe. Having to rely on all of the thousands of previous rides and experiences in order to successfully ride a super technical, massive wave is thrilling for sure. I’ve always been really interested in trying to overcome my fear and keep a cool head under pressure.
How does big wave surfing compare to anything else…say firing Pipeline?
The danger element, the fear element, having to stay calm in a super intense and dangerous situation, it’s very, very similar. On the other hand, there are many people who surf really big Pipeline, but don’t want anything to do with huge deep-water waves. There are similarities, but they are not the same.
Guys like you, Laird Hamilton, Mark Healey, and Kelly Slater seem timeless. How do you continue to perform as high level athletes in mega-sized surf?
That’s a good question. I think a lot of it has to do with physical longevity. Feeling physically prepared is critical when riding big waves. Riding big waves really well is mostly about psychology and mindset and being physically prepared goes a long way in making you feel like you’re ready for it.
Is there something special about surfing that allows people to perform as they age, or is there something going on in your circles that other athletes aren’t tapping into?
It’s actually very difficult to perform at a high level as you age in surfing. Surfing commands a lot of fitness, speed, and timing. And those things tend to easily go away as you age. Timing and speed especially. Also flexibility and mobility. Anyone that you see in their 50s and 60s still surfing at a high level takes it very seriously and puts in a lot of work. It definitely does not come naturally.
Who do you think the new guard will be in terms of surfers who will continue to ride big waves into their 40s and 50s?
Yeah I think guys like Ian Walsh, Kai Lenny, Billy Kemper and Albee Layer will definitely surf really big waves in their 40s and 50s. I will say it’s very easy to feel as though the reward is not worth the risk anymore once you hit your 50s. No matter how hard you train, you’re still in your 50s and you’re much more vulnerable and not as durable as you were in your 30s.
