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I leaped into the ocean over 50 years ago during a time when surfing wasn't a legitimate career. From the beginning, serenity motivated my interest in surfing. Increasing crowds in the water instigated me to jump at an opportunity to travel to Bali to visit my brother in 1969, where empty waves greeted me. As Bali grew into a popular surf destination, we pushed on to other, more remote places. In 1972 I joined a fellow traveler, Bob Laverty, to the South East tip of Java. After many boat adventures to the racetrack left, my brother and I started the first surf camp in the world on the edge of the jungle at what became known as G-land. At the age of 64, I find the same serenity without international travel, out miles offshore riding open ocean wind swells off the windy coasts of Maui.

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The Inertia

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