At eight, any wave for Uriah McDonald is often well overhead. Photo: McDonald archives
Surfing at the world’s deadliest surf breaks takes a lot of guts. And talent. At just eight years old, Uriah McDonald has already paddled out at both Pipeline and Teahupo’o. Not only has he paddled out, but he’s surfed both waves better than kids twice his age. Heck, he surfs them better than most grown men.
Raised in Oceanside, California, McDonald grew up in the water. He started surfing at just eight months old and was instantly hooked. Today, McDonald travels the world with his family, tackling his dream waves and spreading stoke along the way. Here, the grom shares how he has the confidence to surf waves of consequence, his favorite surfers, and his big dreams for the future.
Do you come from a family of surfers?
Yes, I do come from a family of surfers. My mom, my dad, and my sister surf, and they’re all pretty good. I won’t say that my mom is better than my dad, but I just said it!
When did you first start surfing?
I first started surfing when I was eight months old, and I loved it. You don’t really get hurt too much unless there’s a reef or unless you get the fin in the head or something. But I have loved surfing for my whole entire life and just fell in love with it when I was a baby.
Where is your home break?
I’m from Oceanside, California. My home breaks are South Jetty, North Jetty, and the pier. But if you want to be really, really specific, I would say South Jetty or the pier. I surf almost every day, but some days I take breaks.
Where is your absolute favorite place to surf?
My favorite place to surf is Teahupo’o because there are barrels there. It’s also a gnarly wave. I don’t know how to explain it, but it just feels good to be on it and get out there. Kind of like the rush of me getting out there and being like, “Let’s do this, baby and get pitted.”
When did you start competing?
I started competing when I was three or four years old. I did the WSA (Western Surfing Association) and a few of their divisions: U9, U10, and U12. I can remember back then when I was in the U7, I won the title of the WSA.
What’s your board set up?
It’s a 4’0”x 14”. The graphic is so sick – I designed it, but I didn’t paint it. My shaper is my coach, Vini Fornari, the brand is A Plus Surf. He’s been shaping my boards since I was four years old. There are no other surfboards like this, and I’m super lucky to have the smallest surfboard in the world.
Do you have a favorite pro surfer?
Italo Ferreira, Griffin Colapinto, John John Florence, Nathan Florence, Caitlin Simmers, Cole Houshmand, and Erin Brooks. I like how Nathan Florence charges gnarly slabs, and I like how John John gets deep barrels. Griffin is so good at full rotations. Caity, I like her wraps and snaps. This is kind of hard, but Italo versus Griffin’s airs, I would say Italo is a little better, but Griffin is better on his barrels. In my opinion.
How old were you when you first surfed Pipeline and what was that experience like for you?
I was six years old when I first surfed Pipeline. The experience was pretty good. The only bad thing that happened was that I got the fin in the head. But it was a super-good experience for me surfing it. I was kind of nervous, and I was kind of excited. Nervous and excited are kind of the same emotion?
I’m super lucky that I got to surf Pipeline because some of the kids, their moms and dads don’t let them surf Pipeline, and they don’t let them surf at all. They just have them stay in the house and play video games. I’m a pretty lucky child to surf Pipeline and all those cool places.
When did you first surf Teahupo’o?
I was six years old when I first surfed Teahupo’o. I went out with my dad, and he would push me in. I was pretty nervous. I’d been watching it since I was four or five years old, and I really liked the wave. It looked super fun for me.
I was super excited to surf it and got kind of nervous. I pulled up in the boat and it looked pretty sick. We got out there and got a couple of waves. We met up with Atrevu Hondo at Teahupo’o, he’s my Tahiti coach. Atreyu’s the nicest person and I love his energy and hanging out with him.
How are you brave enough to surf these scary waves?
I believe a lot in myself. If I can surf Teahupo’o, I can surf any wave! I had faith in myself that I could accomplish that, and my family said that too. I feel like my body was just like, “Uriah, you are doing this. You know you can do it and you’ve done it before.”
My support on the boat: my filmer, Atreyu, my dad, my mom, my sister, and my Tahitian brother always support me. Like when I get hit by the reef, they put this stuff on it that makes it better or put the lime on it (laughs). They help take care of me.
Do your parents get nervous when you surf these dangerous waves?
My mom gets a little nervous when I surf the big waves and get clobbered.
What’s been your gnarliest wipeout?
Probably when I was with my dad at Teahupo’o. We got out there, we got caught by a set, and it was a 10-foot set of like six waves. The first one barely washed us in, but the second one kind of washed us in. The third one washed us in and then a wave broke right in front of us, and it just absolutely got us. It was absolutely scary. I got on the Jet Ski and my dad had to go in a wrestling match with the reef!
You’re a better surfer than most grown-ups! How did you get so good at surfing so young?
Because when I was younger, I just had this bond with the ocean that I knew would never end. I was just comfortable with getting tumbled around and I would stay calm.
What are some spots on your surfing bucket list?
Some other spots that I want to try and surf are the Maldives, Skeleton Bay, Margaret River, and The Box.
When you have the stoke, anything is possible. Photo: McDonald archives
Do you do any other sports?
I skate and snowboard!
You have a big social media following. Why do you like to share your adventures with the world?
Because I feel like it’s super entertaining for them to watch. I like to do my sports and sometimes I see in the comments, “What’s next for you, Uriah?” I always push it farther and they like to see me do all that crazy stuff. They see the smile on my face when I’m surfing, and they see me having super fun, which encourages them to do that stuff too.
What have been some of the coolest things that have come out of your surfing journey so far?
We went to Tahiti a month ago. Atreyu has a super cool group of Tahitian kids, and we would go get lunch with them every day and surf with them. So maybe the best part of surfing is getting to meet new communities all around the world.
What are your surfing goals?
My shorterm goal is landing an air reverse before I’m nine and getting an actual full-on deep barrel, like a real one. My long-term goal is to land a double backflip before I’m 21 or 22 and land a double full rotation and a double alley-oop. And I want to be number one in the rankings in the WSL and be a world champ.
Anything else you want to share?
Just be happy and keep being adventurous, baby!
