Might be time for a wax change? Photo: Didi Paul
In surfing, as in all other areas of endeavor, expertise can be its own reward. More efficient technique and expenditure of energy, broader meteorological acumen, greater understanding of surfboard design, advanced physical prowess; in surfing’s case, especially, expertise’s sum total translates directly to more enjoyment, which is, after all, the point of the entire exercise. Yet experience and expertise don’t always go hand in hand. A close look at just about any lineup will reveal plenty of surfers who, despite having had a lot of water flow under their boards, are still making any number of fundamental mistakes. And that’s understandable — most surfers, especially those with more experience, are too obsessively focused on catching their next wave than to offer any helpful advice to someone who they might one day find themselves competing with. Kind of a “every surfer for themselves” pattern that perpetuates itself. So, let’s remedy this right now, with this precursory list of things that even experienced surfers do wrong.
[A caveat: I’m talking “experienced” surfers here, not sponsored pros. Although many of them could probably learn a thing or two here.]
RIDING THRUSTERS IMPROPERLY
The three-fin thruster’s design imperative is providing control when carving on-rail off the bottom, maintaining control vertically on the wave face, then sustaining that speed and control for the down-wave carve. Is this how you see even some of the better surfers at your spot riding their thrusters? Or are they simply pushing against the fins, lifting the nose and hop-skating along mid-face? Study Ethan Ewing (below), on rail and surfing the way a thruster should be surfed (forgiving him those tail slides.)
POACHING INSIDERS WHEN PADDLING OUT AFTER RIDING A SET WAVE
Every time an experienced surfer, paddling straight back though the lineup after riding a set wave, stops to poach an insider, they significantly upset what should be that lineup’s accepted rotation pattern, assuring that everyone gets those waves commensurate with their skill level. What should those better surfers do? Paddle wide, back to the outside lineup, and take their proper place in the pecking order, leaving the smaller, inside waves to those working their way up the ladder.
TYING THEIR LEASHES SO THAT THE STRING EXTENDS PAST THE RAIL
Such a kook move, but I’ve seen plenty of lifelong surfers, and even some pro’s, who apparently have no idea as to the function of the nylon webbing “rail saver,” which have been a standard component of every surf leash on the market since Kelly Slater surfed in the amateur boy’s division. If not to save the rail, what do they think it’s hanging there for?
SURFING MID-LENGTHS LIKE A “SHORTBOARD”
Specifically designed to alleviate a “glide deficient” diet, when ridden properly (employing the rail, not just the tail) the mid-length affords suitably-inspired surfers trim speed and flow rarely attained on contemporary “competition” style shortboards. Yet you see a lot of very experienced, mostly older surfers out there trying to do just that on their seven-foot-plus, 2+1 finned, full-figured modern machines, standing on the tail and laboriously wagging the nose around, as if trying to win a heat in the U.S. Championships in Huntington Beach…in 1970. To avoid further embarrassment, watch the first 59 seconds of the video below:
PADDLING ALL WRONG
Like you, I know plenty of surfers with decades of experience — really good, way more than competent surfers — who are terrible paddlers. As in, viewing each arm’s stroke as an individual effort, rather than a coordinated sequence intended to generate propulsion, performing the “catch” wide, elbows straight, rather than sweeping the hands under the board, biceps almost kissing the rail; throwing up water in the stroke’s release like a gopher digging a hole. No matter how long you’ve been surfing, try to make sure none of these mistakes are yours.
TALKING TOO MUCH ABOUT THEIR SURFBOARD’S LITERS
Go ahead, ask even your average experienced surfer how their surfboard’s “liters” affects its performance, and get ready for an answer completely unsupported by the board’s shaper, most, including to some of the sport’s most legendary, who point to factors like foil, rocker, width and bottom contour as the main components of performance. In fact, as applied to surfboards, liters measure only total volume, which, in turn, marks only the board’s level of floatation, which in itself has very little effect on a surfboard’s performance — or even its paddling. Lay this factoid on the next top surfer you catch pontificating on their board’s liters, not their double-concave.
NOT REPLACING WAX REGULARLY
Nothing burns me up more than seeing an otherwise together, experienced surfer with a surfboard in need of an oil change. Grimy, black, smushed down, carbon-datable wax is not only completely ineffective, it signals obvious neglect, and a lamentable lack of respect for this wondrous piece of equipment, both traits unworthy of anyone who truly loves to surf.
UNDER-FINNING THEIR PERFORMANCE LONGBOARDS
I remember a discussion with venerable Santa Cruz shaper Bob Pearson. Well, in truth, I was getting a lecture. Bob had rolled his eyes at my finicky insistence of what fins to use with a nine-foot performance longboard he’d just made me, claiming (as if I knew better than him) that a 7.5 center fin would make the board looser than an 8.0. “Fins provide forward drive, and pivot,” he told me. “Looseness is primarily a component of tail rocker. More rocker, looser board. Under-finning means less drive, less pivot and less control, not looseness.” And so far as I’m concerned, that’s gospel.
CHARGING HARD, ALL DAY, ON THE FIRST DAY OF A SURF TRIP
Seen it time and time again: experienced surfers, those with plenty of surfaris under their belts, choosing to hang it all out there on the first day at an exotic break whose waves are generally bigger, hollower and more powerful than those regularly encountered at home (why else go on a surf trip?), the result all too often being a combination of broken boards, reef cuts, sunburn, dehydration and exhaustion. Completely avoidable maladies, all of which lead to time, precious time, spent out of the water. Gerry Lopez said it best: “Surf your first day for your fifth day.”
THINKING THAT THEY DESERVE WAVES MORE THAN ANYBODY ELSE
Surfing’s Cardinal Sin: the belief that simply because you’re skilled enough to catch more waves, you deserve more waves. Being an experienced surfer is an opportunity to be a positive role model, taking advantage of your greater skill set to establish order in a crowded lineup, not by selfishly taking every wave you can, but by effectively fostering the rotation pattern mentioned above (see “wave poaching”), helping to assure that everyone gets their fair share. Sound like anybody you surf with? It should.
