Editor’s Note: Photos by Federico Vanno.
As the season of giving has passed, the experience begs the question, are surfers generous by nature? Certainly not in the lineup. We know that much. When it comes to sharing waves, an act unheard of in our sport, dog-eat-dog can be found at every surf spot in the world. Take or go without. Such is our lust for the objects of our desire. Waves, like one night stands, most often give us acts of love without the honor they truly deserve.
The reason for this greed is simple. There just aren’t enough waves to go around. Which is an extraordinary thought when one considers the vastness of our oceans. And this is what has driven us to all the points of the compass in order to try and find solace. To make unchallenged love in a place with plenty of elbow room. Even the most famous quote in surfing’s history reflects the pipe dream of “mine, all mine.” It was John Severson who in 1960, in the first issue of SURFER magazine, ended it with the crescendo, “In this crowded world, the surfer can still seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts.”