I have a thing about reminiscing. Inside my brain, everything used to be better. Progress be damned! I should have been born Amish. Nah, that would suck – they have to judge everyone.
Anyway, surfing’s got a couple of little gems that I wish to God I was either around for or could pull off now without coming off like a total lunatic. With any luck, in a couple of years when the fashion cycle makes its loop, I’ll be paddling out in a white spring suit with my face covered in pink zinka. I can’t wait!