Early morning Malibu slides. Photo: Dylan Gordon
At the start of 2014 I had a goal to surf more. Who out there doesn’t want more time in the ocean? So I’ve put together the 9 best ways to make that happen.
1. Do the half hour dash
I see so many crews that will happily blow a half hour checking the surf and talking story with a mate on the headland and then say “Its not that great and I haven’t got time for a surf today anyhow.” Do your checking from the water, jump in. Its the only way, you will never regret paddling out. You get your ocean fix and you arrive at work on time with a smile.
2. Surf with frothers
Don’t you want to feel what he’s feeling? Photo: Jared Aufrichtig
Every beach has at least a few of them. You know the dude. He or she is the one that sees gems break all over the place no matter how bad the waves actually are. Spend at least a minute with one of these guys each day and soon it will rub off until you become “the frother”
3. Hydrate
You know the feeling. Its Monday morning after a weekend of surfing. You are dried up, out of energy and fatigued. The problem is its pumping and there’s hardly anyone out because they all feel the same. This can be overcome with super diligent hydrating, Im talking at least 3 liters of water a day (I smash more water than this, some will need more than others). Make sure you do the drinking early in the day otherwise you will end up chasing your tail. Get in the habit of drinking at least two cups of water as soon as you get out of bed. As soon as I did this I was up for a early surf every day no matter what. High quality magnesium taken at night is one the best things a surfer can have. It’s amazing for muscle fatigue, soreness and keeping the hydration levels in check.
4. Don’t surf the same place every day
I did this for a few years and nothing sends your surfing more stale than riding the exact same wave every day. As soon as I broke out of that cycle the surfing world and experience expanded. I know its easier to lob down to the closest spot each day and have that familiarity, but really you will be doing yourself a favor to break out of your comfort zone. If you can’t go somewhere different each day at least go somewhere new once a week. And if thats too hard then walk up the beach 100 meters. Just don’t get stale!
5. Get a quiver of weird boards
When you are feeling uninspired take out an old twin fin, a log or even just a pair of swim fins and go body surfing. I have a mate who surfs on a blow up mat when he’s feeling a bit jaded. Spend a half hour on that thing and he’s back frothing with massive smiles and a love for surfing again. Change it up people, there’s more to the surfing experience than a 6’1 thruster!
6. Keep a surf diary
Write down in a diary each day when you surfed, how it was and what board you used. It’s a way of keeping you accountable. Time can slip away really fast and before you know it you haven’t surfed for two weeks. Writing in a diary will show you that it is possible to fit a surf into your schedule more than you think. It also gives you a incentive to just go out and have something to report on for the day. If you are really keen on this idea there are even Apps for your phone.
7. Stretch
Photo: iSurfiYoga
Yoga, Pilates or getting a good personal trainer to do some strength training will 100% get you more surf time. Not only that but your surfing will improve as well. 5-10 years ago I was going down constantly with lower back. It’s something most surfers over 25 will know about because it will get the best of us all at some stage. But well advised training programs will keep those injury times to a minimum and you will be pulling turns that you only thought were possible years ago. The difference I have noticed in the last year of doing yoga and strength training a few times a week is mind blowing.
8. Go on surf trips
You will clock up serious hours on a dedicated surf trip. Take the time off work and lock in a time where you just want to surf yourself silly. It doesn’t have to be a charted two week boat trip in Indo (although that is a good plan). It can be just a weekend road trip with a few mates or even a day trip to a quiet beach that requires a big hike to get into. It will add a bit of adventure and spark to the surfing experience. Waves are always better when you are on a trip and nothing gets in the way because you have locked in that time for surfing and nothing else.
9. Set the alarm clock
I’ve left the most obvious for last, but waking up early is one of best ways to catch more waves. You will be amazed how much stuff you can fit into the morning. It will feel like you have amazingly created a 26 hour day. You can surf a good half hour or more before sun rises (on the east coast) and that might be all you need to get the day started on the right foot. Go to bed earlier because that crappy movie or reality show is not worth it when you can get barreled in the morning.
