Often, a great surf session is defined by a single wave. Maybe you did a great turn? Maybe the drop had a little air under your board? Or maybe you didn’t do much of anything at all, but the wave itself was just so perfect it took your breath away? Like this longboard wave at Nias. You probably know Nias as a place that goes bananas on a big swell, but it’s mighty pretty on a little one, too.
Oh sure, it’s just a single wave. Just 17 seconds of footage, filmed vertically. And no, the wave isn’t a throaty, spitting tube with a lip so thick it could take a head clean off. But although it’s an impossible task to document the feeling one gets on a wave like the one you see above, the clip almost — almost — does it.
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