I have a theory about those people who ride exclusively shortboards and scream about their hatred for longboarding: they’re not very good at it. They’re also generally not very good at surfing a shortboard, either, but that’s kind of beside the point. They’re usually at that stage where it FEELS like they’re surfing well, but they’re pooping all over their tail pad and flailing down the line, pumping uselessly on their little chip of a board. They’re on that chip of a board because someone told them that “core surfers” only ride shortboards, which is objectively stupid. We’re not all professionals and we’re not all riding waves that shortboards excel in. Don’t get me wrong — shortboards are fun when waves are steep and fast, but man oh man, when waves are average or just plain bad, there ain’t much better equipment than a log under your feet. And when they’re good and you feel like riding a longboard, well shit, ride it. You’re not out there to please anyone else, so ride whatever you damn well please.
For those who love the glide, well, there aren’t many better vessels than a log to get it. Hawaii, in particular, has a very good contingent of surfers who ride all manner of surf craft, and a whole bunch of them are riding longboards in this very cruisy longboarding clip from the inimitable Dan’s Surf Videos.