Chris Taloa may be most well-known for playing Drew, the bleach-haired, rough around the edges heckler in Blue Crush that famously tells Kate Bosworth’s character, “the Pipe Masters is a surf contest not a drowning contest.” But, by all accounts, the Los Angeles resident by way of Hawaii has lived an enviable life.
Long before his acting career, Taloa was an accomplished bodyboarder taking stand-up riding to new heights (literally). Then, Hollywood came knocking for a spell and he decided to pick up and move to California full time. Since, he’s become a bit of an unlikely social activist after a run-in with an angry local at Lunada Bay.
Despite his California residency, and the roots he’s laid down in recent years, the natural beauty of Hawaii and its connection to his childhood continues to loom large in Taloa’s life.
In the piece above, Taloa waxes about his Hawaiian-ness and the essence of the place – “For me the description of Hawaii is almost impossible to describe to you, but the best way that I can say it is going to a luau… and everybody’s speaking this Polynesian/English mix dialect – pidgin dialect – and you look in the crowd and you got Hawaiians, you got Filipinos, you got haoles, everybody’s all in their fucking mixing up.”
Back in Los Angeles, Taloa’s adjusted to less frequent and smaller surf by getting into fishing and lobster diving.
His words to live by? “No matter what’s going on in your life, it’s all about your immediate choice and your present well-being… It’s up to you to make the choices. You want to be negative? It’s up to you. It’s a choice. You want to be positive? It’s up to you. It’s a choice. I choose to be a happy individual and I follow my outlets and I run with that and so does my family.”