Some of the best waves stay under the radar by their own doing. They’re safe (mostly) even if a name and a location gets out because they operate like any true luxury brand — limited quantity and production. And limited quantity drives demand through the roof when done right. In the case of a left-hand slab, “done right” just means churning out heaving barrels in the smallest of windows, so that often the only people who could ever show up to surf the place would have to be the ones with immediate access.
That’s at least part of the formula for this left-hander, a wave Gearoid McDaid admits is one of his favorites. He told us last week that it can be so fickle it only breaks for a proper 30 minutes sometimes before the tide turns everything off. This was one of those lucky days though, where everything lined up just right and McDaid was given hours with good conditions holding up and his friends on deck to enjoy it.
“This is definitely one of my favorite waves in the world, so when it breaks, I try to make sure I’m there,” he said.
