Editor’s Note: The following is an excerpt from the book Girl Surfs World, by Melissa Diamond: is the newest surf memoir on the market. The book follows her around the globe as she explores new cultures and faces her fears, including this story of a close encounter with a great white off the coast of Cape Town:
Wanting more, always wanting more, I fixed my eyes on that wave further out and away from my friends. I dug into the South African sea toward the two other surfers, or was it three? Dove under an oncoming wave and noticed a dark shadow that went below, but the surfer never came up for air. I scanned the surface for the soul but found only confusion, the feeling of something not right, the obvious eluded me.