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The Inertia

Harry Bryant is a different breed of surfer. You have to fail to succeed, and if you want to become as good at surfing as Bryant, you need to fail a lot. That means a distinct lack of care for your joints and bones. It means seeing a section and, without thinking twice, sending it as hard as you can. It means committing to landing something unlandable. Once you’ve spent your surfing career with that mindset, then, and only then, will you surf like Harry Bryant. But only one person has done exactly what Harry Bryant has done… and that’s him. Oh, and you also need to attempt to ride a tube on your knees and backwards. Because Harry Bryant did that.

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