The Inertia

I arrived at the Margaret River car park well before first light, hoping to get past the traffic controllers at the Margaret River Pro event site. I had been sick the night before and was still feeling ill in the morning, debating whether I should just go home and get back to bed or shoot. Then, as light started to break I saw a set wave come through at The Box that suddenly had me pumped. I ventured out on my own, hoping to get a few shots of empty barrels. But it wasn’t long before I was joined by Mitch Crews, who was intent on charging and ended up getting some great barrels. Kieran Perrow came out next to check the surf before the comp, trading waves with Mitch. Then came Jordy Smith, Michel Bourez and CJ Hobgood. The boys got the best of it before the swell backed off…and I went home straight to bed. I was definitely still sick, but I was so stoked.

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