You know that feeling when you’re a little inside, rolling around under water, lungs just starting to ache a little, and you pop up to take that much-needed gasp? It’s nice, right? But then you also know that feeling when, as you’re filling your lungs, you look at the horizon and see a very large set bearing down on you. Especially at Uluwatu.
It’s not a good feeling. When the set is big enough, there’s a sort of resigned disappointment — both because you know you’re going to spend the next few minutes alternatively underwater and paddling your ass off, but also because… well, shit, that set is a good one. “Why couldn’t I have been outside?” you ask yourself. “Why did I take off on that last wave?!”
Well, as the guy in the video above proves, the only thing you can do, aside from giving up and paddling in, is to put your head down, take your lickings, and just keep paddling. The reward is that much sweeter.
