When it comes to surfing, “perfect” is relative. Maybe you’re not as good as someone like, say, Jamie O’Brien. Perhaps you’re not ready for overhead, barreling Backdoor. But you know that you WANT to be ready. You know that one day you WILL be ready, and then that WILL be perfect. But for those middle-of-the-road surfers, it would probably be safe to say that a wave that barrels and isn’t so big it will make you shit in your pants is “perfect.” Any day with good friends, good waves, and warm, crystal clear water is a perfect day, right?
Such was the case on this day that Jamie O’Brien called “the perfect day at Backdoor and Pipeline.” So whether you call it 3-foot or 8-foot, let’s all just agree that it was a damn good day. For those of you that may not be following Jamie O’Brien’s new filmer’s foray into the surfing world, Jackson is on a mission to get barreled. Jamie decided that this day was the day, and well… we’ll just let you see what happened.
