When Pipeline gets really big, it’s an amazing sight to see. Third reef feathering way out the back, surfers just specks in the water, scratching towards the horizon in unison. And Pipe’s been good for the last little while. Good and big.
“Pipe right now is maxing size,” Koa Rothman said. “It’s like third reef. Huge, as big as it can probably handle.”
Of course, when it gets that big, it’s not easy to surf. Wash throughs are frequent, and no matter how good of a surfer you are, the ocean is going to let you know that she’s in charge. Koa knows this. It’s part and parcel of becoming a Pipe specialist, and he’s certainly put in the time and earned his stripes.
Part of surfing, of course, is paddling. And when Pipe is maxing, the paddle out is not easy, no matter who you are or your place in the pecking order.
“This paddle out could be up there with one of the gnarliest paddle outs you can get at Pipe,” Koa says, “just because of the size and how fast the water is moving.”
Although it certainly would be tough, Koa, with his paddle strength and wave knowledge, made it look relatively easy. Then he scored a bunch of waves that, to most surfers, would be the waves of their lives, broke his board, and likely went out and did it all again the next day.
