Some days, the waves are perfect. Clean lines. Predictable barrels. Easy to film. This wasn’t one of those days. These were thick, slabby, unpredictable barrels — the kind where everything is undecided until the very last second. No two waves the same. Some makeable. Most not.
The edit above isn’t a surf report. It’s why I love filming days like this. Why chaos keeps me engaged. Why perfection can feel monotonous. Why I’m drawn to moments that feel heavy, wild, and unresolved. From staring down set waves through the eyepiece, to chasing “shiny balls” during the lulls, to filming waves that break with no one on them at all — this is what catches my eye, and why I hit record.
If you’ve ever wondered what a surf day feels like from behind the camera, this one’s for you.
Find more from Brad Jacobson on his YouTube channel.
