Professional Surfer

The Inertia

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This wave got a lot of attention at Pipeline. It was probably one of the more unique ones I’ve ever had out there. I think a common misconception is when people see a singular clip from days like that day, they think it’s so organized and lined up. This was one of those days where you’re getting cleaned up and caught inside a lot. There are good waves, but there are a lot of bad waves.

The swell direction had a lot of west in it, and it was just the right size for a really strange wave to come in.

Getting washed through Backdoor or Off The Wall on a big day like that is the last place you want to be. It’s not safe at all. You will hit the bottom very hard.

I have never in my life caught a wave like that; one that lines up all the way through from inside outside Off the Wall through the main reef at Pipeline. I might never catch a wave from there again and have it turn out like that. To me, that was a super special wave. That was a one in a million wave at Pipeline.


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