There are a few people on this earth who know Hawaiian waves better than Mark Healey and Jamie O’Brien. They both have the ability to make waves that might be terrifying to the average surfer look like playful everyday surf. Take, for example, how they ride at Waimea. It’s not a wave that’s easy to surf. It’s big and heavy — there’s a reason why it’s so famous, after all — but Jamie and Mark take that power and run with it. Most people don’t go left at Waimea… but Mark and Jamie do. After Jamie does a whole bunch of other stuff, that is. If you’re only here for the Waimea section, skip ahead to the 15:30 mark.
Learn to push yourself, keep calm, and manage fear in heavy surf with Mark Healey’s Guide to Heavy Water.