Mark Healey paddles for waves and misses them too. Pro surfers: they’re just like us! Photo: YouTube//Screenshot
Mark Healey has achieved the status of living legend in the surfing world. He’s done this through years of dedication to surfing the biggest waves he possibly can. He’s a patient man – one who waits for the wave he wants instead of wildly throwing spaghetti at the wall in hopes of sticking a good one. And when Oahu’s outer reefs got in the way of a swell big enough to break over them, he was there, waiting patiently.
“The swell bumped up on the buoys overnight,” he said as the sun rose. “So it looks like we’re going to get a good swing at this.”
Healey wasn’t the only big wave legend in that particular lineup. Kohl Christenson was there, as was Shane Dorian and plenty of others. It must be a special thing to paddle out into a lineup of legends, knowing that you’re also breathing that rarified air, and Healey wasted no time in paddling for a wave as dawn broke. After a few missed attempts — just to show he too is human — Healey stroked into a bomb and the day was off and running. Unfortunately, the good ones got away from him during his first kick at the can.
“Not too much luck,” he said from the ski. “Tried to go on one but got clamped, then got another wave and that was about it. I got caught inside a lot and had a hard time positioning myself, but it’s a beautiful day.”
As the wind turned onshore, Healey made the call to head back in. Well, almost back to shore, at least. Waimea Bay was the next call, and it was a good one.
