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The Inertia

When Pipeline is truly in form, it’s a dangerous mix. It’s equal parts grace and destruction. That, we suppose, is why it’s so wonderful to watch someone who is perfectly in tune with the place. Like busting a bronco or breaking a green horse, there’s something amazing about taming something a hell of a lot stronger than a human being—especially when Pipeline is, as Nathan describes it, “as big as unruly as it gets.”

Nathan Florence is a person who is quite often perfectly in tune with the place, so when Pipeline is firing, he’s on it. “Pipeline was in full form the other day serving out glory and violence in equal doses,” he wrote. “We surfed legit six full hours and did all that we could to get bombs! We got extremely worked, very barreled, and ended the day absolutely fried and stoked!”

A warning for those who just want to see the part where Pipeline works itself into a fury: skip ahead to the 10:20 mark.

 
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