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Download Sine Qua Non: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing with Greg Long, NOW available on iTunes!

A reflective Greg Long. Photo: Photo: Jason Murray./<

A reflective Greg Long. Photo: Jason Murray./Screenshot, Sine Qua Non

Xpreshon Big Wave World Tour champion, Greg Long (USA), has been recognized as an “Adventurer of the Year” by National Geographic. Honorees were chosen for being outstanding individuals with remarkable achievements in exploration, adventure sports, conservation and humanitarianism. Each embodies a unique spirit of adventure.

“As I was dangling from the basket of the Coast Guard helicopter, being lifted from the middle of the ocean in huge seas after basically drowning, I said to myself, ‘There’s no way. I’m done. Thank you for this second chance at life. I don’t need big-wave surfing anymore,’ ” remembers 30-year-old Greg Long in an interview with National Geographic. That day, he vowed he would never surf big waves again…

After nearly drowning, the big wave surfer came back to win the sport’s biggest title.


VOTE NOW For Greg Long!

A documentary film presented by The Inertia now on iTunes called Sine Qua Non: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing with Greg Long, offers an intimate portrait of the mentality, risks, and lifestyle associated with pursuing monstrous waves around the planet through the eyes of the world’s most decorated big wave surfer.

 You can watch the full film and meet Greg Long himself at the Turtle Bay Resort “Talk Story” interview series, December 4th on the North Shore of Oahu. If you can’t make the event, watch it LIVE  on


National Geographic’s 2014 Adventurers of the Year:

Greg Long – Survivor of a near-fatal surfing accident who went on to win the 2012/13 Big-Wave World Tour just months later.

Stacy Bare and Nick Watson – Veterans and outdoorsmen who founded Veterans Expeditions, aimed at other military veterans.

Amy and Dave Freeman – American adventurers who made an 11,647-mile, three-year trip across through North America, connecting with school classrooms en route. ·

Diana Nyad – The 64-year-old American distance swimmer who successfully swam from Cuba to Florida on her fifth try.

Kevin Pearce – An American snowboarder and survivor of a traumatic brain injury who encourages kids to wear helmets via his “Love Your Brain” campaign.


Kilian Jornet Burgada – A Spanish ultrarunner whose terrain includes glaciers, rock ridges and steep snowfields.

Raphael Slawinski and Ian Welsted – Canadian alpinists who became the first to climb one of the last great unclimbed peaks in the world, Pakistan’s K6 West.

Adam Ondra – An extreme rock climber from Czechoslovakia.

JP Auclair – A Canadian freestyle skier recognized for his “urban” ski style.

Sarah Marquis – A Swiss hiker fresh off a three-year trek from Siberia to Australia.

It’s up to you to decide who will be the People’s Choice Adventurer of the Year. Online voting for the People’s Choice Adventurer of the Year continues through January 31st, 2014 (you can vote up to once a day). Winner of the popular vote will be announced in February.


greg long, national geographic

Long walked the red carpet at the 2013 Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Awards with three of his rescuers from the US Coast Guard – Pilot Lt. Joseph Plunkett, Rescue Swimmer Michael Linehan and Flight Mechanic Kevin Bates. Photo: Surf Channel | Shannon Quirk


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