I grew up surfing almost exclusively right-hand point breaks. I surf regular. Nearly every spot where I live is a right. As a result, I am far more comfortable going right than left. I’m not an ambi-turner, and Derek Zoolander would say.
It’s an embarrassing problem, and never am I more aware of it than when I go to Indonesia, where I spend most of my time missing sections and blowing barrels because I just can’t pump properly going left. The video above serves as a stark reminder that I should spend a few months surfing exclusively lefts, because I am missing out on so much.
Noa Mizuno, though, is not missing out. He, along with filmmaker Marc Chambers, followed Bali guide Kayu Vianna into the heart of the most beautiful beast.
See more from Marc Chambers on Vimeo and follow him on Instagram.
