Do you ever feel guilty about going surfing? I do. Those mid-day surf sessions when I could and probably should be working. The events I’ve showed up late or salty to because I had to squeeze in a quick session beforehand. The friendships I’ve let fall on the back burner because they don’t surf and I’d rather spend my free time in the water with my friends that do. The evening get-togethers I’ve skipped in order to catch some shut eye before a dawn patrol session. The days on end when I’ve been MIA because there’s a solid south swell.
Sometimes, I feel guilty about making surfing the centerfold of my life. But should I?