A little while ago, I moved to Venice, CA from Vancouver Island, Canada. On the southern tip of the island is Victoria, where I was born and, for the most part, raised. In that little corner of the world is a surf community that’s unlike any other. Far removed from Tofino, the south island has some of the best waves I’ve ever surfed… when it’s on. But it’s a fickle and secretive place. It’s more work to surf there than anywhere else I’ve ever been. Long hikes through unmarked trails, bears watching from the beach, and long, cold paddles. But it’s also the most rewarding place I’ve ever surfed, partly because of the difficulty.
Scott shaped me a surfboard at Barracuda Surfboards before I moved to the hustle and bustle of Venice. It was one of the best surfing related experiences I’ve ever had. We drank beers, shot the shit, and when he was done, I had two amazing things: a great surfboard and the pleasure of listening to Scott’s story. Support your local shaper, right?