May 2008 marked my second surf trip to Mexico, and I felt prepared. I had just completed a Spanish course, was well exercised and conditioned, and knew the waves I would be contending with. But during my first surf of the trip, I was not prepared to chat in the line-up with two guys from California who lost their friend to a Great White two days prior.
We talked about the various breaks in the area and they told me why I should not surf Troncones. They were sharing waves with their friend there a few sessions ago, and now he was gone. I had no words to speak, only sullen silence until finally, I said I respected them for getting back in the ocean. I wasn’t sure if I would be brave enough to do the same. I told them I was sorry.