Author, Encyclopedia of Surfing

531969_414837125252964_1343384877_n3: My proofreader

My mom, actually. Former college professor, recently-named Citizen of the Year in Baywood Park. Booked herself a one-way ticket to Hawaii at age 18 and stayed for a year. So foxy in the late ‘60s that my teenaged surf buddies all had a crush on her. I didn’t have time to send her every page of EOS. All mistakes in spelling or grammer—that’s totally on me.

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