We all know the feeling of anticipation that comes before a big swell. The quiet conversations of who’s going to be going where, when the winds might be good and what boards everyone’s riding. The good, solid meal the night before and the difficulty getting to sleep with images and sensations of wild rides racing through your mind.
Now imagine that you’re Ian Walsh and all the above is actually your job. And, along with the fear of injuring yourself there’s the question of will the conditions be good enough tomorrow to get the shot you’ve been looking for or a wave that can push a career forward? Not only that, but instead of loading up the car with a big-wave board and heading to the local break, you’ll be flying multiple guns and tow boards across the world to one of a few remote destinations.
Ok, now you know what it’s like to be a big wave surfer. You could also just take ten minutes and click play on the video above. You might learn something too. Surprisingly enough, it would appear that big-wave surfing is a lot more fun than I’ve made it out to be. Don’t get me wrong, I’m sure it’s difficult and horrifying and stressful, but in the midst of it all these guys seem to be having a damn good time. I guess that’s why they’re the professional big-wave riders and not me. Suits me just fine.